魚蛋、腸粉、碗仔翅

數天前看到蔡瀾介紹在 The Krug 能試到西方新近時興的分子料理,美味與否還不知,但只賣相意念,已經足夠令我怎也要去嘗一嘗。

今天隨便在嘉咸街買了些魚蛋、腸粉、碗仔翅當午飯,雖然還是吃了大半,但味同嚼蠟,肚是填滿了,那三十元還真花得不甘心。

忽然心想,這餐雖不美味,卻也未算難吃,何以會憤憤不平呢?孟子說〔食.色.性也〕,也就是人類賴以生存與延續後代的兩個本性。但自有文化以來,人類又何曾以「本性」去對待這兩件事。

文化進步了,要求亦比前高。食,老早非再只為充饑。美味固然需要,色、香、味、環境、服務、餐具等也有所要求。分子料理之流更把烹飪當遊戲,而且是一個昂貴的遊戲。至於性,更是九成九九都只為歡愉享受非為延續後代而作的。

那是否所謂的文明,把人性塗污了。

又或者,像花香之於蜜蜂,要我們做也要做得開心才成。食、色既能帶來快感,人類才會樂此不疲,才會生存下去。

原來孟子搞錯了,追求快樂才是真正的人性。

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One thought on “魚蛋、腸粉、碗仔翅

  1. Ha, I thought you’re only interested in Cha-chant-tank tim.
    The idea is actually quite similar to fish balls ar…  I remember it was so hard to describe to my gwailo hallmates what fishballs are like. They have minced beef, turkey, … but what? Minced fish? And chewy texture? They just could not imagine…

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